An elegant little escape on the Sicilian coast.
Perched high above the sparkling Ionian Sea, Taormina is one of Sicily's most enchanting towns. Ancient streets wind between elegant palazzi, tiny cafés and colourful balconies, while Mount Etna rises dramatically in the distance. There is history here, certainly, but Taormina is perhaps best enjoyed without trying to see everything. Wander, eat well, swim in the sea, sit somewhere beautiful with a coffee and watch the world go by. For a weekend, at least, allow yourself to move at a slower pace.
Arriving in Taormina
Arriving in Taormina feels like entering another world. The road winds upwards towards the ancient town, climbing through the hillside before eventually revealing views across the Ionian Sea. As you make your way towards your hotel, you'll pass beautiful old buildings, Juliet balconies and little cafés spilling onto the pavements. Drop your bags, open the shutters and let in the warm Sicilian air. Perhaps your room overlooks the bay; perhaps Mount Etna is visible in the distance. Either way, there is something about that first glimpse of Taormina that makes you realise the pace of the weekend is already beginning to change.
Once you've settled in, head out for your first wander. Corso Umberto is the main pedestrianised street running through the historic centre, connecting Porta Messina in the north with Porta Catania in the south. Along the way you'll find boutiques, cafés, churches, palazzi and plenty of places to stop and look. Don't rush. Take a little detour down one of the side streets, stop for an aperitivo, browse the ceramics or find a shady table and watch people pass by. Then perhaps it's time to return to the hotel, unpack properly, stretch out on a lounger and sip something cold. You have only just arrived, after all.
Where to Stay
Taormina has somewhere to suit a variety of tastes, from intimate boutique hotels to historic properties and hotels overlooking the sea. One of the first decisions to make is whether you'd rather stay in the historic centre at the top of the hill or closer to the beach around Mazzarò and Isola Bella. Both have their own appeal, and the Taormina–Mazzarò cable car makes it relatively easy to move between the town and the coast during the season. Check the current operating times before travelling, as services and timetables can change.
For a Romantic Weekend — Palazzo Vecchio Taormina
Tucked away in the historic centre, Palazzo Vecchio Taormina offers the sort of intimate setting that suits a romantic weekend. Its elegant interiors, rooftop views and central location make it an appealing base for couples who want to spend their days wandering the old town before returning somewhere peaceful in the evening. The property has an elegant bar, top tier onsite restaurant and a serene spa.
For Beautiful Views — Hotel Metropole Taormina
For those who want to wake up surrounded by views, Hotel Metropole occupies a dramatic position along Corso Umberto. With its glamorous feel and elevated position above the town, it makes a lovely choice for a weekend when the view is very much part of the experience. The crown jewel is its enchanting open-air atrium and outdoor infinity pool deck, where the water seemingly drops straight off into the Ionian Sea.
For Somewhere With History — Hotel Méditerranée
Established in 1960, Hotel Méditerranée sits in a peaceful part of the historic centre, around five minutes from Corso Umberto. With traditional interiors, a Mediterranean garden and panoramic views towards the bay and Mount Etna, it has a distinctly old-world character. The real showstopper here is the panoramic pool area, beautifully carved into a terraced Mediterranean garden that looks directly out over the town, the bay, and the smoking peak of Mount Etna.
Friday Evening: Wander Without a Plan
Once you're unpacked, take your time getting ready for your first evening. There is something wonderfully pleasurable about dressing for dinner on holiday. No rushing from work, no throwing something on because you have somewhere else to be. Just the simple ritual of taking your time. Put on something you feel beautiful in, add a little perfume and head towards Corso Umberto as the evening begins.
Stop for an aperitivo along the way. Daiquiri is tucked into one of Taormina's atmospheric stairways in the heart of the town, with outdoor seating and a lively cocktail-bar atmosphere. After your drink, continue your stroll through the old town, browsing the little shops selling Sicilian ceramics, jewellery, textiles and perfumes. Look up as you walk, too. Taormina's buildings are full of beautiful details, from wrought-iron balconies and colourful ceramics to carved stonework and trailing bougainvillaea.
The town feels almost like an open-air museum, with layers of Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman and Spanish influence woven into its architecture. Eventually, wander down one of the quieter side streets and find somewhere for dinner. There is no need to make it complicated. A table outside, something delicious from the local menu and a glass of Sicilian wine are enough. Let dinner take its time.
Saturday Morning: Coffee, Cannoli & the Ancient World
Start Saturday slowly. Have breakfast at your hotel or find a little café and order a coffee and something sweet. If you have a serious appetite for cannoli, make your way to Laboratorio Pasticceria Roberto, a family-run pastry shop on Corso Umberto. The business has been making traditional Sicilian sweets since 1989 and is particularly known for its cannoli, filled with fresh ricotta.
Then it's time for a little history.
The Ancient Theatre of Taormina
The Ancient Theatre is one of Taormina's great experiences, and not simply because of its history. Built into the hillside, the theatre looks out towards the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna, with ancient stone, sea and volcano coming together in one extraordinary setting. Take your time here rather than rushing around in search of the next photograph. Sit for a moment and take in the view. It is the kind of place that reminds you that some experiences don't need improving with a busy itinerary.
Mia Dolce Vita tip: If possible, book an earlier visiting time to avoid the busiest part of the day and the strongest midday heat.
Take Your Time Over Lunch
After a morning of exploring, find somewhere with a shaded terrace and settle in for lunch. This is not the moment for a quick sandwich eaten while walking. Sicilian food deserves a little more time, so look for dishes that celebrate the island's ingredients: aubergine, tomatoes, basil, citrus, almonds, pistachios and fresh seafood.
Pasta alla Norma is one of the classics to look out for. Traditionally made with pasta, tomato, fried aubergine, basil and ricotta salata, it is a wonderfully simple example of how much flavour can come from a handful of good ingredients. Pair it with something local and let lunch stretch a little longer than you normally would. After all, you're on holiday.
Spend the Afternoon by the Sea
After lunch, it's time to head down towards the water. Take the cable car from Taormina towards Mazzarò and make your way towards Isola Bella. The journey takes only a few minutes and offers beautiful views as you descend from the hilltop town towards the coast.
Isola Bella is one of Taormina's most recognisable sights: a small rocky island connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand that appears and disappears with the tide. The area is part of a protected nature reserve, with a mixture of public beach and organised lidos where you can hire sun loungers and umbrellas.
Find somewhere comfortable, put your book down beside you and swim when you feel like it. There is no need to fill the afternoon. This is precisely the sort of space a weekend away is meant to create.
Saturday Evening: Dress for Dinner
Eventually, it's time to head back to the hotel. Shower off the salt and sand and take your time getting ready. Put on the dress you packed for the occasion, do your hair, add a little perfume and perhaps the lipstick you don't always wear at home.
Think less Get Ready With Me and more get ready because life is worth enjoying. There is something lovely about dressing up simply because you are somewhere beautiful. Head back into the centre as the light begins to soften and spend another evening wandering Corso Umberto. Find somewhere for dinner, order a Sarti Spritz, and enjoy the pleasure of having nowhere else to be.
Sunday Morning: A Little More Time
On Sunday morning, don't set the alarm too early. Have a longer breakfast, order another coffee and sit outside if you can. By now, you may notice that something has shifted. The hurried feeling you arrived with has begun to disappear, and the town seems to invite you to slow down with it.
Spend some time wandering the quieter streets before the town becomes busy again. If you feel like a little more culture, visit Palazzo Corvaja, close to Porta Messina. The historic building reflects the different cultures that have shaped Sicily over the centuries and was once home to the Sicilian Parliament.
Then simply continue wandering. Perhaps you'll find a little ceramics shop, perhaps you'll stop for a coffee or perhaps you'll sit in Piazza IX Aprile and admire the views across Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea. The square, with its distinctive black-and-white paving, Church of San Giuseppe and historic Clock Tower, is one of those places where sitting and looking is as worthwhile as doing anything else.
What to Eat in Taormina
Sicilian food deserves its own reason for visiting. Alongside Pasta alla Norma and cannoli, there are a few classics worth seeking out.
Arancini
Crispy fried rice balls filled with ingredients such as ragù, peas and cheese are one of Sicily's best-known street foods. You'll find different versions across the island, with shapes and fillings varying from place to place. They make an ideal little lunch when you're wandering through town and want something delicious without interrupting the day.
Aubergine, tomatoes, celery, onions, olives and capers come together in this classic Sicilian sweet-and-sour vegetable dish. Traditionally served at room temperature, caponata makes a wonderful accompaniment to crusty bread and is a perfect example of the simple, generous flavours found throughout Sicily.
Granita with Brioche
Don't leave Sicily without trying granita with brioche. The combination of icy granita and a soft, sweet brioche is particularly wonderful on a warm morning. Almond, coffee and lemon are among the flavours you'll often find, although pistachio is another Sicilian favourite. And if you are sitting outside somewhere beautiful, with the morning sun beginning to warm the terrace, there are worse ways to start the day.
For a little slice of Sicily at home check out our Caponata and Granita recipes!
The Practical Details: Planning Your Taormina Escape
Most visitors arriving by air will fly into Catania Airport, which is around an hour from Taormina by road, depending on traffic. You can travel by bus, arrange a private transfer or take a taxi. Once you're in Taormina itself, walking is one of the best ways to experience the historic centre. Much of Corso Umberto is pedestrianised, although the town's steep streets and many staircases mean comfortable shoes are essential.
The cable car connects the historic centre with Mazzarò and the beaches below. Services can change according to the season and maintenance, so check the current timetable before travelling.
When to Go
Taormina is particularly beautiful in spring and early autumn, when temperatures can be more comfortable and the atmosphere may feel less intense than during the height of summer. If you do visit during the busiest months, simply embrace the fact that Taormina will be lively. Start your days early, leave space in your itinerary and make time for the quieter moments between the major sights.
How Long to Stay
Two nights is enough for a taste of Taormina, but three or four nights gives you much more opportunity to slow down. And when you pack, make sure you bring comfortable walking shoes. You'll need them for the cobbled streets, steps and hills, but don't forget something elegant for those evening aperitivo hours, too.
Leave Something Undone
Taormina isn't somewhere you need to conquer in 48 hours. It's somewhere to wander, to eat, to swim, to sit in the sun and look at beautiful things. It's somewhere to wear the dress you've been saving, discover a little shop you weren't looking for and linger over lunch because nobody is waiting for you to hurry.
And perhaps that's the best way to travel here. Don't worry if you don't manage to see every attraction or fit in every excursion. You don't have to climb Mount Etna, visit every museum or tick every box. Leave something undone. Leave something unexplored. Leave yourself a reason to come back.
Because perhaps the real luxury of a weekend away isn't how much you manage to see, but how little you feel you need to rush. And that, after all, is the point.